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The Home Counties; the stockbroker belt; a luxury hotel, indulgent accommodation…and an overpriced
restaurant serving indifferent food! This, unfortunately, is what we have come to expect from most hotel
restaurants within a thirty miles radius of London. The dearth of high quality eateries within commuting
distance of the great metropolis is a sad indictment of the mediocre standards we are prepared to
accept locally. Apart from a few places such as Bray and Marlow, the search for Michelin level dining is a
futile one.
Are restaurant enthusiasts happily prepared to journey to London, where there is an embarrassment of
riches, and so accept the absence of local fine dining? And does this deter ambitious chefs from
making and staking their reputations in the provinces?
Michael Wignall, who earned a Michelin star at the Burlington Restaurant in Yorkshire, is hoping to fill
part of the gap at the Pennyhill Park Hotel in Bagshot. Set in acres of lush parkland in the Surrey
countryside, this five star establishment houses the Latymer restaurant, which is serving dishes easily
capable of earning Michelin accolades.
Some might argue that this is a surprising place to showcase his talents. The low ceilinged, oak
beamed, paneled dining room, lit by mullioned windows and wall lights, and furnished with heavy high
backed chairs and velvet banquettes might seem to be too old fashioned a setting for his very modern
cuisine. A certain incongruity exists in this apparent mismatch of styles of décor and cookery.
Admittedly, a large hotel restaurant gains economies of scale which an independent restaurant could
not offer: The multiple menus (including two separate tasting menus at lunch and dinner, both of which
comprise dishes not taken from the Carte) as well as an abundance of luxuries such as foie gras,
truffles, caviar, langoustines and miniature vegetables abound in a highly creative kitchen, seemingly
free from financial constraints.
How refreshing to find a chef who admits on his menu cover that his food is “complex…and elaborate.”
The multi component dishes – on average six or more items - show the labour intensity of his cooking
and the serious attention to detail. Even the amuse bouches and the pre- puddings can be multi layered.
In most Michelin starred restaurants, the ever conscious need for consistency can often shackle
creativity, however across two visits to the Latymer both are achieved with apparent ease.
Michael does not give himself or his brigade a break between services, given the huge amount of
preparation needed. His gentle nature and slight stature belie a well drilled, highly organized and “loud”
kitchen.
Michael also eschews the current obsession with regionality, admitting most of his poultry comes from
France. He does include seasonal ingredients – asparagus, rhubarb and spring truffles were all in
evidence - but is not constrained by them. Foams, a ubiquitous fad in fashionable restaurants, are used
in moderation.
Occasionally it is not immediately clear which is the main element, given the eclectic collaboration of
ingredients on the plate. This is not to say that tastes and textures clash. The beauty of Michael’s
cooking lies in the clarity and cleanliness of taste coupled with harmonious combinations of texture. His
modern European style has firm classical roots with a conscious artistry of presentation.
Canapes consist of six items including an intense foie gras parfait of silky smoothness. The amuse
bouche of Salmon and citrus Langoustine salad provided a delicate opening.
A dish of slow cooked piglet was an up-market version of brawn, but made with meltingly tender flesh
and a jellied consommé of great intensity. This was balanced in flavour and texture by truffled
marshmallows, crisp ears and lightly pickled vegetables.
Canelloni of sugar snap and Portland crab was a triumph of invention, providing a real explosion of
freshness of taste and contrasting textures. Combined with cumin scented tuna, and a generous
serving of caviar, this was a light summer dish of exquisite quality.
A dish of Hereford snails, slow braised pork and garden peas confirmed the technical ability of the
kitchen. Again the vegetable element shone in its freshness of taste, although this dish had one
ingredient too many – a poached quail’s egg which added colour but little else.
Croise duck was perfectly timed to produce medium rare slices of meltingly tender and mildly gamey
breast. The calves sweetbread, olive gnocchi and lettuce farci (stuffed with shredded duck meat) added
to the richness, but did not imbalance the dish.
The two desserts included a deconstructed lemon tart – no pastry in evidence – combining a perfect
balance of sweetness and acidity. The accompanying mango parfait and sautern syrup complemented
the astringency of the lemon perfectly. Chocolate negus was in the same league, confirming the skill of
the pastry section.
Other aspects of the dining experience at the Latymer were exemplary; an engaging and well informed
sommelier matched wines expertly to the tasting courses. The service was courteous, knowledgeable
and attentive, but unobtrusive
Prices – of West End level - are in keeping with the quality of ingredients and the generosity of the
servings, including the canapés, amuse bouches and pre puddings. Most importantly, they reflect the
abilities of a chef on top form.
This is a bold new venture that deserves to succeed. And yet there were only three tables occupied at a
Friday lunch. In London, the room would be packed with discerning foodies, fully appreciative of the
delights on offer. Clearly, a wider audience is needed, and serious marketing investment is surely a
priority.
From a restaurant recognition perspective there is no reason why Pennyhill Park should not be the next
Gidleigh Park: Yes the cooking is fundamentally different, yet as much as you can compare contrasting
styles they are of equal calibre: And while the target market profile may be somewhat different, getting
that right is the only obstacle to realizing the clearly abundant potential.
Review by Daniel Darwood, 13th June 2008
restaurant serving indifferent food! This, unfortunately, is what we have come to expect from most hotel
restaurants within a thirty miles radius of London. The dearth of high quality eateries within commuting
distance of the great metropolis is a sad indictment of the mediocre standards we are prepared to
accept locally. Apart from a few places such as Bray and Marlow, the search for Michelin level dining is a
futile one.
Are restaurant enthusiasts happily prepared to journey to London, where there is an embarrassment of
riches, and so accept the absence of local fine dining? And does this deter ambitious chefs from
making and staking their reputations in the provinces?
Michael Wignall, who earned a Michelin star at the Burlington Restaurant in Yorkshire, is hoping to fill
part of the gap at the Pennyhill Park Hotel in Bagshot. Set in acres of lush parkland in the Surrey
countryside, this five star establishment houses the Latymer restaurant, which is serving dishes easily
capable of earning Michelin accolades.
Some might argue that this is a surprising place to showcase his talents. The low ceilinged, oak
beamed, paneled dining room, lit by mullioned windows and wall lights, and furnished with heavy high
backed chairs and velvet banquettes might seem to be too old fashioned a setting for his very modern
cuisine. A certain incongruity exists in this apparent mismatch of styles of décor and cookery.
Admittedly, a large hotel restaurant gains economies of scale which an independent restaurant could
not offer: The multiple menus (including two separate tasting menus at lunch and dinner, both of which
comprise dishes not taken from the Carte) as well as an abundance of luxuries such as foie gras,
truffles, caviar, langoustines and miniature vegetables abound in a highly creative kitchen, seemingly
free from financial constraints.
How refreshing to find a chef who admits on his menu cover that his food is “complex…and elaborate.”
The multi component dishes – on average six or more items - show the labour intensity of his cooking
and the serious attention to detail. Even the amuse bouches and the pre- puddings can be multi layered.
In most Michelin starred restaurants, the ever conscious need for consistency can often shackle
creativity, however across two visits to the Latymer both are achieved with apparent ease.
Michael does not give himself or his brigade a break between services, given the huge amount of
preparation needed. His gentle nature and slight stature belie a well drilled, highly organized and “loud”
kitchen.
Michael also eschews the current obsession with regionality, admitting most of his poultry comes from
France. He does include seasonal ingredients – asparagus, rhubarb and spring truffles were all in
evidence - but is not constrained by them. Foams, a ubiquitous fad in fashionable restaurants, are used
in moderation.
Occasionally it is not immediately clear which is the main element, given the eclectic collaboration of
ingredients on the plate. This is not to say that tastes and textures clash. The beauty of Michael’s
cooking lies in the clarity and cleanliness of taste coupled with harmonious combinations of texture. His
modern European style has firm classical roots with a conscious artistry of presentation.
Canapes consist of six items including an intense foie gras parfait of silky smoothness. The amuse
bouche of Salmon and citrus Langoustine salad provided a delicate opening.
A dish of slow cooked piglet was an up-market version of brawn, but made with meltingly tender flesh
and a jellied consommé of great intensity. This was balanced in flavour and texture by truffled
marshmallows, crisp ears and lightly pickled vegetables.
Canelloni of sugar snap and Portland crab was a triumph of invention, providing a real explosion of
freshness of taste and contrasting textures. Combined with cumin scented tuna, and a generous
serving of caviar, this was a light summer dish of exquisite quality.
A dish of Hereford snails, slow braised pork and garden peas confirmed the technical ability of the
kitchen. Again the vegetable element shone in its freshness of taste, although this dish had one
ingredient too many – a poached quail’s egg which added colour but little else.
Croise duck was perfectly timed to produce medium rare slices of meltingly tender and mildly gamey
breast. The calves sweetbread, olive gnocchi and lettuce farci (stuffed with shredded duck meat) added
to the richness, but did not imbalance the dish.
The two desserts included a deconstructed lemon tart – no pastry in evidence – combining a perfect
balance of sweetness and acidity. The accompanying mango parfait and sautern syrup complemented
the astringency of the lemon perfectly. Chocolate negus was in the same league, confirming the skill of
the pastry section.
Other aspects of the dining experience at the Latymer were exemplary; an engaging and well informed
sommelier matched wines expertly to the tasting courses. The service was courteous, knowledgeable
and attentive, but unobtrusive
Prices – of West End level - are in keeping with the quality of ingredients and the generosity of the
servings, including the canapés, amuse bouches and pre puddings. Most importantly, they reflect the
abilities of a chef on top form.
This is a bold new venture that deserves to succeed. And yet there were only three tables occupied at a
Friday lunch. In London, the room would be packed with discerning foodies, fully appreciative of the
delights on offer. Clearly, a wider audience is needed, and serious marketing investment is surely a
priority.
From a restaurant recognition perspective there is no reason why Pennyhill Park should not be the next
Gidleigh Park: Yes the cooking is fundamentally different, yet as much as you can compare contrasting
styles they are of equal calibre: And while the target market profile may be somewhat different, getting
that right is the only obstacle to realizing the clearly abundant potential.
Review by Daniel Darwood, 13th June 2008
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